Tradition Reimagined

Xander Zhou has developed a distinctive approach to contemporary menswear, bringing together tailoring, streetwear, cultural references and experimental proportions. His work is rooted in an international outlook, but his Chinese heritage remains an important part of the designer’s creative identity. The collection presented at London Collections Men explored this relationship between personal heritage and modern fashion. Zhou described fashion as an international language, allowing references to China to become part of a much broader visual vocabulary rather than defining the collection on their own.

Tailoring with a Twist

Traditional tailoring was reworked through exaggerated proportions and unexpected layering. Jackets and coats appeared alongside wide-leg trousers, cropped pieces and relaxed silhouettes, creating a wardrobe that felt formal in construction but youthful in attitude. The trousers were particularly important to the overall shape. Wide and flowing silhouettes created a strong vertical line, while more fitted or structured tops provided contrast. This play between volume and precision gave the clothing an almost architectural quality. There was also a strong sense of movement. Long sashes, layered fabrics and elongated pieces added fluidity to the silhouettes, making the clothing feel dynamic rather than rigid.

East Meets Modernity

Zhou’s Chinese heritage was an important starting point for the collection, but the references were translated rather than reproduced literally. Traditional ideas were mixed with contemporary tailoring, utility clothing and sportswear influences. Elements such as tabard-like layers, straps, embroidery and distinctive necklines gave certain looks an Eastern character, while bomber jackets, denim, tailored trousers and outerwear placed them firmly within modern international menswear. The result was a collection where cultural reference became part of the design language rather than a costume-like statement.

Graphic Detail and Texture

The clothing rewarded closer inspection. Floral and graphic prints were placed against structured pieces, while striped trousers and printed sashes created strong visual lines. Sheer and lightweight fabrics introduced another dimension, contrasting with more substantial tailoring and outerwear. Laser-cut surfaces, quilting, textured fabrics and carefully positioned graphic details gave individual garments a sense of depth. For portrait photography, these elements become especially important. A close image can reveal details that might otherwise disappear when the clothing is seen as part of a moving collection.

The Fashion Portrait

A Xander Zhou portrait is about more than documenting what the model is wearing. The silhouette becomes part of the composition. Wide trousers create movement around the legs, oversized outerwear changes the proportions of the body, while long straps and sashes introduce lines that extend beyond the main garment. The model’s posture and expression then become part of the overall visual language. This makes Zhou’s work particularly suited to portrait-led fashion photography. The clothing has a strong identity even when photographed away from the runway.

 The Fashion Portrait

A Xander Zhou portrait is about more than documenting what the model is wearing. The silhouette becomes part of the composition. Wide trousers create movement around the legs, oversized outerwear changes the proportions of the body, while long straps and sashes introduce lines that extend beyond the main garment. The model’s posture and expression then become part of the overall visual language. This makes Zhou’s work particularly suited to portrait-led fashion photography. The clothing has a strong identity even when photographed away from the runway.

CARRO Studio Behind the Lens

CARRO Studio’s portraits capture the individual character within Xander Zhou’s menswear. Rather than relying solely on the full look, portrait photography allows attention to move between the model, the silhouette and the details of the clothing. The cut of a jacket, the fall of a trouser, a graphic print or a layered neckline can all become defining elements within the image. The portraits also preserve the attitude of the collection. Zhou’s clothes feel contemporary and confident, but they retain a sense of individuality that prevents the styling from becoming uniform.

An International Language

Xander Zhou’s collection demonstrated how menswear can bring together different cultural references without losing its contemporary identity. Chinese heritage, European tailoring, streetwear, utility clothing and experimental proportions were brought into the same visual conversation. The result was a collection built around movement, contrast and personality; clothing that challenges traditional ideas of menswear while remaining grounded in recognisable wardrobe pieces. Through CARRO Studio’s lens, the collection becomes a portrait of that approach: modern, expressive and constantly moving between tradition and experimentation.